Legio Solaria Warlord and the anchor in my ‘mandatum’ maniple is “Imperatores Venandi”. This model was an absolute joy to put together, even despite the challenges of the stippled armour pattern having to be done on all the feet and leg components. Similar to the approach I took with one of the Mortis Warlords, I built the base up using cork to give me height for the stride pattern and also depth to sink the weight of the trailing foot into. The other reason I created some vertical depth to the base was to accommodate a breached fuel pipeline as part of the battlefield theming, the crushed supply container coming from one of Forgeworld’s Titanicus scenery packs. All of the painting and weathering techniques I’ve already covered in previous posts about the warhounds, but I want to talk a bit about the red used on Solaria in case anyone is interested. (Tip: You can find guides on all of the schemes I use in the main ‘Titanicus’ page by scrolling down to the ‘Forges of Mars’ section where there are handy expanding guides which I add to all the time)
For the small sections the red is just a pre-shade of white over black to create a greyscale. Over this I airbrushed (or brush painted if a super small area) Vallejo game air (VGA) bloody red. To shade this I applied Vallejo game air (VGA) scarlet red and reinforced with Games Workshop Drakenhof Nightshade in the deepest shadows. A final glaze pulls the red together of super-thinned blood red with a couple of drops red ink. I used Scale ‘Inktensity’ red if you wish to follow along but any artists red ink should work as well. For the larger armour panels I used exactly the same method as above with one exception; the preshade was built up in a marble effect by airbrushing the white through a stretched piece of wet-wipe. You should be able to find many online guides and YouTube videos how to do this technique and it’s very much an optional extra, I only did it to really double down on the specialist game art plates in the book(s) which show the red having a slight marbled effect. The red as described above is then applied over the marble pre-shade, although I strongly recommend building the colour up using progressive thin layers so as not to completely obscure the underlying pattern.