As generic as the ‘Deimos’ class Rhino chassis is, it’s also the style I prefer to the Mars pattern. It’s not just the armour style but the exhaust stacks that makes it such a great kit to paint.Similar to the later Mars pattern the Deimos chassis is also the basis for multiple offensive variants, one being the Scorpius whirlwind missile system.
The design aesthetics of the launcher can be directly mapped back to the original shoulder-mounted man-portable missile launcher first seen in the Rogue Trader era. It’s one of the things that makes the Deimos Scorpius such an interesting kit.
Building the interior
Anyone who knows my hobby inclinations probably already knows I can’t let a kit interior go unpainted. It’s just a thing. The Scorpius is build upon the basic Rhino and therefore the interior of a transport. That was a problem for me as I wanted the interior of the Scorpius to reflect its function as an artillery platform. Delving into the bits box I created consoles and interior panels as well as a gunner position. This helped fill enough of the space and create at the very least the illusion of a fire control system. Of course later down the road I know I’m going to wonder why my landspeeder is missing certain components and I don’t have a full set of panels for one of the Land raiders, but these are small prices to pay for being able to keep my painted interiors record intact.
For the launcher itself I wanted it to look suitably archaic. Not in a primitive sense but something valuable, well maintained and highly valued. The launcher had to look like something from the lost age of technology. Creating the different tones and textures in the metal parts is a completely organic process. I cannot give you a recipe, not because I’m being obtuse but simply because I don’t have one and build up the effects by eye. The steps I do follow however are I normally begin with a flat dull base like burnt iron mixed with decayed metal, something with a little red/brown in it. I then stipple brighter but still dull irons over this to start to build up a more textured looking metal. Steels are then selectively stippled to create weathered edges, scratches and highlights. Rather than add additional metallic tones I create variance by using thin transparent glazes such as sepia to create an oily looking metal or purples and reds to create heat burnishing. The final stages are to burnish up the launch tubes with light steel and chrome dry brushing. By keeping the strokes perpendicular to the curve of the launchers fine lines are developed by the brush creating an almost brushed steel effect. A final blast with the airbrush of sepia and flat black over the ends of the tubes completes the effect.
At the end of the day I find true metallics a joy to paint, not because they are hard to control the end effect but because they bring life to miniatures on the tabletop. At the end of the day I’m an army painter and the way true metallics respond to the light as you push those tiny armies around is one of the true joys of the hobby in my opinion.